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Thread: L47/Aurora 4.0L powered Fiero.

  1. #26
    GIMME DA COOKIES Array JayS's Avatar
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  2. #27
    Regular User Array piratemosh666's Avatar
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    That^^

    This is fucking cool.
    This life is but a scream that has become your whore

    '11 Fusion SE - ​6spd - BRAAAAP Edition

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    I brought that diff and my Dremel to work so that I could spend a few hours cleaning it up. Wasn't too bad. I guess I'm pretty familiar with helical gear-type LSDs now.



    Here's the non-drive half of the housing with the left knife edge 'broken' or rounded-over. The casting is only mediocre as far as surface quality goes. There aren't any pinholes or anything I can see in the casting that worry me, I just don't want tiny chunks breaking off and grinding around my trans for how ever many miles.



    Here's one of the axle gears. That 'pocket' formed behind the splines is where the retention clips in the axles engage. See how it's square to the spline surface? If you just throw the gears in like that and try to remove an axle after you've installed it, the clips won't compress and you're pretty much fucked.



    The solution? Chamfer those bitches.



    That's really all you've got to do until you measure for shims. Some people have discovered that depending on how their carrier bearing preload shims measure out, they need to clearance the inside of the trans housing or even have a few thousands machined off of one of the surfaces as their measured shim ended up negative. Hope to not have to deal with that. Planning on getting everything back together tomorrow. Before I torque the housing bolts back down with red Loctite, I'll soak everything in some solvent and scrub everything. Reassemble with some gear oil and reassemble the transmission, given I can come up with some shims.



    I don't really know exactly what that black schmutz is all over the damn thing. I think it's just dried machine oil from being in a shipping container for weeks across the salty ocean. Who knows? It's coming off tomorrow.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 12:32 PM. Reason: Fucking grammar.

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    Hah. Remember those valve covers? Well, I painted them in my basement so that I could bake them in the oven in my apartment. The car is at my parent's house and my father is gracious enough to let me borrow a bay to complete this dumb thing. He's got a 2-car detached with 220VAC and heat and he doesn't charge me a dime. Thanks pops. If you've never done the oven thing, it's relatively safe. It's only paint, not powdercoat. The oven is only at like 200 degrees and I vented it for a long while afterward. No detectable residue the next day in the oven. The paint didn't go in fresh. I allowed ten minutes for the coat to at least tack.



    Anyway, I actually sprayed the damn things on a gigantic piece of cardboard under the smaller oven-sized piece you see with the VC itself on it in the over above. I did this in the basement. Like 8 feet away from my IT junk. Whoops.



    I think it's just dried particles clung to dust on the fan intakes. I'll have to get a vacuum after them. Still funny to see them all red, though. I really need to work on buying a house with a shop or enough room to build one after I'm done with this thing. I saw a thread about custom building a large powder coating oven, so I might get into that if I can get ahold of a big enough shop. Truly, they're simple enough. Basically you build a gigantic box that's well-sealed and well-insulated out of galvanized sheet steel and 2x4s. Add some insulation, a few 220V oven heating elements, a PID controller with thermocouple and some kind of top-bottom recirculation fan and you've got yourself a large scale powder coating oven. Boom.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 12:33 PM.

  5. #30
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    Woke up late. Couldn't force myself out of bed. Anyway, I worked on some shit.

    I put the motor back together. Looks pretty good.



    Torqued everything down on the diff. Red Loc-Tite on the final drive bolts and red Loc-Tite on the diff case halves.



    Had to do a little work on the VSS reluctor ring to get it to squeeze on. It's probably like a final .005" interference fit. I tapped it on with a 2x4 and rubber mallet. Whatever. It worked.



    That's all I've got for tonight. Hopefully this weekend I'll get to put the trans back together?
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 12:38 PM.

  6. #31
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    Oh, I forgot about this thread. I finished and registered this stupid thing. Here are a few pictures:





    Fuck yea, bitches! First time I've driven this car in ten years. Can't tell you how excited I was. Smiling ear to ear. Explained EVERYTHING about the car to an older gentleman in an Advance parking lot. He fucking loved it. I've never felt better.



    But alas, I can't win. It overheated like a whore in Texas and I just couldn't fix it. Yup. Head gaskets were garbage. So, I spent 190 minutes [I timed it] and I ripped the subframe out and ripped the heads off.





    And I found these wonderful specimens when I ripped the head bolts out. I knew this would happen. In fact; I WANTED this to happen. I know these motors well now. To get any kind of longevity out of them, the heads need to be pulled and insert-style studs installed in the block. DexCool, in combination with lack of maintenance, heat and time do this to the block.



    The threads either pull right out of the block, or they're just goo from galvanic corrosion. They used about a 3/4" engagement with an M11x1.5 fine thread STEEL bolt in ALUMINUM block with no factory thread sealer. Torqued to a gajillion foot pounds. Fucking GM. The repair is to drill those bastids out and tap for 5/8-11 UNC. Then you install custom CNC CroMo hardened studs and use hardened washers and nuts to reclamp. Still waiting on the studs. Another 'while I'm in there'; I bought stiffer valve springs and custom CNC machined retainers. Bumps my redline to 8K. Holy fuck. 8K. 8" from my head. Worth $550, for sure.

    Anyway, I wanted to build the heads tonight, but I got drunk instead and my shop is like 20 miles away from my apartment. Dangerous. Maybe tomorrow. Hopefully the studs show up soon, then I can finally put more than 30 miles on this bitch.

    Yes, it's fucking fast.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 12:39 PM.

  7. #32
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    Damn how did I miss another fiero owner on the board....Build looks awesome man.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darksyde View Post
    Damn how did I miss another fiero owner on the board....Build looks awesome man.
    Thanks!

    I started documenting this build on Pennock's, but interest kinda dwindled. Oh well. I finally drove this car again and as soon as I get my studs, I'll put her back together. Everything else seems to work pretty well, clutch and brakes included. I've got the next five days off, then I work two; then off another ten days. If I can't finish it in that time...

  9. #34
    Formerly Red00WS6 Array Wahoo's Avatar
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    Awesome, congrats!

    Whats your next plans with it?

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    Careful taking pictures while you are driving in Eden, the police make the SS/Gestapo seem reasonable.

  11. #36
    GIMME DA COOKIES Array JayS's Avatar
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    Great build.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wahoo View Post
    Awesome, congrats!

    Whats your next plans with it?
    Plans? I'm 'onna drive the shit out of it. But seriously, though; I've got the parts for a 5x4.75 hub-swap, so I might do that this winter. That would give me more options for wheels and brakes, so I'm looking into a few things. I'm thinking Wilwood quad pistons and 13" rotors up front or some factory Corvette package. It doesn't really need much. Stops fairly well with manual factory brakes. I want to put a turbo on it, but if I do that I'll likely do an aluminum sheet metal intake and dry sump oil pan. Copper oil tank with an electronic, ignition controlled solenoid. I could practice my aluminum and copper welding over this winter, too. Sheet metal, gas and TIG rod are cheap enough. Did I mention I bought a TIG machine, too?




    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro Krant View Post
    Careful taking pictures while you are driving in Eden, the police make the SS/Gestapo seem reasonable.
    Hah, did you recognize WD Henry & Son there or did I say I'm in Eden? Yea, my parents have lived there for 5 years now or so. I've noticed that with the police. Brant is waaaay worse, but they're corrupt from the officers all the way through the judges. I mostly behave in Eden, so I haven't run into too many issues.

    Heading over there now to see if my studs are there. If they're not; I'll work on the heads a bit. These DOHC heads are huge. I feel bad for this block and what it has to hold up.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 12:39 PM.

  13. #38
    GIMME DA COOKIES Array JayS's Avatar
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    Any plans to figure out a way to get the decklid back on?

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    Quote Originally Posted by JayS View Post
    Any plans to figure out a way to get the decklid back on?
    Yea, I'll probably spend some time with that once I get it running properly. I think I still have the vents and strut tower brackets for them, so those should pretty much go right back on. It looks like I'll be able to fabricate a few brackets for pinning the actual decklid, likely with those lever-type latching ones that screw/rivet into the decklid itself and snap down to lock. Something like these:

    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2016 at 04:54 PM.

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    Still no studs. Starting to getting pissed.

    Worked on the heads tonight. I brought my girlfriend with me and even though I had her help, she started to get bored after a couple of hours, so I was only able to finish one head. There's a lesson learned.



    I love this spring compressor. It's super badass. I replaced the thumbwheel with an M10 flanged nut so I could use a 3/8" socket wrench and 15mm socket instead. Worked much better. I just had to tap on the valve with a chunk of wood and a rubber mallet to release the valve keepers. Not my fingernails here, clearly.



    I made sure to keep all of the parts labeled, separated and organized so the head would go back together easily. Here's about a quarter through pulling the old springs and retainers.



    The new springs are 100lb on the seat vs the factory 50lb. At factory lift, the stock springs are 100lb and these are about 180lb. Can't wait to see how they do.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 12:40 PM.

  16. #41
    Lifetime User Array 1QIKZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro Krant View Post
    Careful taking pictures while you are driving in Eden, the police make the SS/Gestapo seem reasonable.
    Sean's cool. McCarthy on the other hand....
    "My Z is a hybrid vehicle....it runs on gasoline and money."

    1994 300ZXTT, 2003 Mustang GTTT
    The only thing better than a twin turbo car is two twin turbo cars.


  17. #42
    Mr. G Q Array Onyx Z32's Avatar
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    Just plexiglas over the back where the deck lid was

  18. #43
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    No studs. What the fuck?

    I finished the heads. The first one took my girl and I over two hours to double-team last night. I did the one today by myself in less than an hour. Not sure what that means. Hah.



    Check out the spring/retainer comparison. Old on the left, new on the right. Gonna be rad.



    I oiled the crap out of everything while reassembling the heads. I've got all of the timing marks lined up and piston 1 is at TDC. I'm ready to put it back together, just need the studs. Speaking of which; here is a picture of the kit. Basically, you drill the block out using the x-plate jig, then tap to 5/8-11 UNC. Finally, put Loc-Tite on the stud and run it down until the large portion of the body drops about 1/16" below the deck, except for the four studs with integrated dowel pins. Slide on new gaskets, then the head and torque it all down. Profit.



    After I finished the heads, I did a bunch of random shit on the car. I pulled the speedometer that was in it so I can replace it with basically the exact same thing, but GPS. That's 'In Production' according to SpeedHut, so hopefully that shows up this week. I also replaced the jacked up shifter cable with a freshy, only 4" longer. Should alleviate the entrance angle on the cable at the transmission a bit. Top of the picture below. Either way I had to replace it, so couldn't hurt; right?





    I made a bushing for the shifter arm on the transmission. The old one was trash from me heating the shit out of the hardened roll pin while trying to get it out. Gotta say, this little baby lathe has proven pretty damn useful. Consider that it's just about 100 years old, and it still holds .003" runout. I'm pretty impressed with it. It's got a brand new [decent] China chuck, but everything else is ancient.

    I chucked up a piece of AceTron GP (acetal), faced it and then turned it to .865" OD x .595" ID. I forgot to take a picture of the finished product. Pretty much, it's a precision sized chunk of black plastic with a bunch of holes in it. Nothing super special.







    Really want those studs. They're all I really need to get it back on the road.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 12:41 PM.

  19. #44
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    Not that I expected to get them on a Sunday; but those God forsaken studs still aren't here.

    I did remember that I've got a brand new FueLab 535 regulator on the shelf and I want to use it, especially post-turbo. The best way that I can see to do that is to completely replace the fuel rails. There's not an overwhelming aftermarket for these motors, so sometimes you need to get creative. I decided to build my own rails from scratch. I started making the injector bungs on the lathe tonight and ordered all of the fittings. I'm making the actual rails out of 1" square HREW steel because it's slightly less thermally active than aluminum, I've got a shit ton and I'm not very good at welding aluminum yet. The bungs are also HREW, but they're from 3/4" round stock. I only had time to whittle up two bungs, but then I had to spend an hour fixing what the previous owner "repaired" on the little Dalton in the tailstock when restoring it. FYI, the handwheel to acme screw connection is not an acceptable place to use epoxy, by the way. I ended up cleaning the hell out of everything and used the TIG torch to autogenously tack the two steel parts. Worked perfectly. I might go try to finish up the rails tomorrow, but I'm not sure I've got enough 3/4" round stock for the bungs. Probably going to have to wait for Metal Supermarkets to open on Tuesday or Wednesday.

    Here are a few pictures:





    They fit!



    ...and the two I managed to finish.



    They're not perfect, but then; neither am I. They should work just fine.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 12:42 PM.

  20. #45
    Lifetime User Array ubengineering's Avatar
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    15 Focus SE - 01 S10 4.3L - 96 Viper GTS - 95 Neon R/T

  21. #46
    Double Wrapped. Cause, you know, well its GM Array ultradriver10000's Avatar
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    I love all of this, keep up the great work.

    Wife = "Honey please don't drift this corner, we have soup in the car."
    1997 Corvette 418| LSX E36 M3 | 2013 Ram Cummins | 1997 Viper | 3800SC Cavy

  22. #47
    Lifetime User Array Norb O's Avatar
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    Very cool - can't wait to hear it screaming to 8K.
    - 2001 560i LSx SOLD
    - 2000 FRC

  23. #48
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    I called the clown that runs this Northstar Performance company; the one that makes those studs. He gave me some sob story about the Canadian Post going on strike or some shit, then goes on to tell me he shipped them from North Dakota anyway. WTF? Not sure how the Canadian Post thing is relevant in that case. Whatever. I just want my fucking studs. He claimed I'd have a tracking number tomorrow. We'll see. Anyway, I cut another two bungs on the lathe and TIG welded the 'main' fuel rail together today. I have to stop at Metal Supermarkets on lunch tomorrow and grab some more 3/4" hot rolled solid round stock so I can make some more bungs.











    I'm going to paint them white. Red/Black/White motor. Should help break up the red from the valve covers and new MSD coils, which I'll get tomorrow. Hah. I'm so almost finished with this thing.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 12:43 PM.

  24. #49
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    Got my MSD coils. I'll be honest; they're pretty rad. I threw a little Sharpie on the very bottom of each coil to indicate cylinder number(s) cause who can remember that shit? It won't be visible when they're installed.



    Worked on the other fuel rail. Mostly finished it. Just need to cap the ends and weld on the one -8AN fitting. Then just some mounting brackets and paint. Hoping to finish these up tomorrow. I want to be ready in the eventuality that my studs actually show up at some point. Dude never sent me a tracking number today. I'm a pretty patient man, but I'm running very thin here.



    Comparison with the old rail. It's comical. I swear these custom joints would support 2,000+ HP. Hah.



    That's it for tonight. Took me about five hours to cut four bungs on the lathe, cut the rail body, drill the holes and weld that all up. This scratch metal fabrication shit is a pain in the ass. Hah.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 12:43 PM.

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    It's been two weeks to the day. Am I out of line? At least I was kind of funny. Anybody care to share in my misery? BTW: Had to Facebook message him because he couldn't respond to his generic info@ e-mail address.












    Acting odd to a complete stranger must be a 716 thing. My buddy Brian was king at it. Anyway; I ordered those fuckers literally two weeks ago. The tracking number he sent me says it doesn't exist yet, so I'm forced to believe the kit never shipped at all. In two weeks. Unbelievable. I'm way too nice.

    Yea. I'm fucking hammered. Big whoop, wanna fight about it?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also; fuck Facebook Messenger. Two apps to do the same fucking thing. Ridiculous.
    Last edited by L47; 07-08-2016 at 01:16 AM.

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