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Thread: Trevor's Triumph

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by focusinprogress View Post
    restocycle.com
    That picture of the Trident head, cylinders, and rocker box covers made me cum!!!

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    Lifetime User Array focusinprogress's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro Krant View Post
    That picture of the Trident head, cylinders, and rocker box covers made me cum!!!
    you're
    welcome

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    Wow. That all looks amazing. Reasonable prices? I'd probably want to send him the engine cases, jugs and my cylinder head. I suppose I could get a quote and go from there.

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    Lifetime User Array GV1390's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by L47 View Post
    Wow. That all looks amazing. Reasonable prices? I'd probably want to send him the engine cases, jugs and my cylinder head. I suppose I could get a quote and go from there.
    Some info from when I spoke with him regarding a SOHC Honda motor:

    " I just finished a CBX engine and it took me over an hour to prepare just the cases for blasting. Covering bearing surfaces, cleaning out and then plugging oil passages and blind holes, etc. Then another hour to rinse and clean and remove all the traces of blast media. That's $140 right there. A 550 engine is a lot simpler though, it would probably take about half that amount of time for your project. There are no shortcuts to doing a professional job! If blast media is left in oil passages, or got stuck to oil or sludge that was not removed before blasting then disaster is ahead. Same with blind holes and threads - media LOVES to stick in threads and it can bind up a bolt faster than you would believe, to the point of breaking a fastener. The solution? Don't get it in there in the first place.

    A complete SOHC engine takes pretty much all day - 6-8 hours or so depending on what all you send, plus return shipping, so $420+. As far as polish, I'd be glad to do the side covers etc to 'factory like" finish, but mirror/chrome finish is frankly a pain in the neck, so I stay away from that. That I can do a lot cheaper - it doesn't involve expensive equipment etc . Generator cover, shifter and sprocket cover, clutch cover and points cover, valve cover no more than 2-3 hours I'd say, net $70-105. ($35 per hour)
    Here's how to work with us:

    Clean your parts and remove ALL of the steel brackets, bearings, seals, clutch actuator, etc. If you're stuck trying to extract something, leave it for me. If it's one or two little things it's on the house. One great way to do this is to get a can of Gunk engine degreaser and trot down to your least favorite local you-do-it car wash early some morning with some ratty jeans, a big milk crate, safety glasses and a handful of quarters. Soak the parts with the Gunk stuff as per directions (in the shade) and then blast them clean with the pressure washer. Wear the safety glasses, and put the parts in the milk crate so they don't go banging around on the ground, breaking fins, etc. RINSE THEM WELL, and then dry them off with compressed air or in a warm oven before you pack them up.

    Pack it all up in the sturdiest boxes you can find. If you're sending us a head and a valve cover, please also send the rubber gasket and the cover bolts. Engine cases can be lightly bolted together with a couple of bolts, likewise the head and the valve cover. Wrap the rest individually with bubble wrap and pad between them with cardboard or rigid foam so they don't get damaged in transit. If you hear clinking when you shake the box they are not well padded enough. An engine needs to be in at least two boxes or the shipping gets expensive because of overweight boxes.

    If you can't find a suitable box, head down to Home Depot and get a couple of their sturdy black totes with the yellow lids, pack into those and then use zipties in all the holes around the perimeter of the lids to seal.

    Weigh and measure the boxes or totes and then email that to me along with your return address and I will email you a prepaid shipping label for a lot less than you can get at the UPS store etc. Tape it to the lid well and also put a copy inside the box for backup. Drop it off at any UPS store for free or hand it to a UPS driver, and you're done. I'll bill you for everything at once when your project is complete.

    Turnaround time is about a week for a project like you described. If you wouldn't mind though, please visit the website and fill out the order form when you do, just so I have all the information I need to process your order.

    Thanks for your interest! And feel free to call or email anytime to discuss or if I can answer any questions. The shop phone is 520-308-3705 and my mobile is 978-697-5838.

    Best,

    Nils Menten"

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    Now that's detailed. I was a bit worried that the cost would end up in the $400-$500 range. Hmm. Guess I'll have to think about that.

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    Bought a nice electric Maytag shop oven for $80. I'm going to install the proper plug that fits my welder extension cord so I can use it wherever in the shop. I got swivel rollers with 125lb capacity each, totaling 500lb. and I'm planning to make a frame for them onto which I'll set the oven so I can maneuver it around. It's actually pretty damn big in there. Glass cooktop, too. Good for warming anodizing chemicals and dyes. And boiling water for French Press. Fits both Triumph case halves on their sides inside without issue and would have room above for another shelf for the inner transmission cover. Also; powder coating.



    Hoping to play with that either tomorrow or Tuesday. Thinking about getting a 20-ton HF press just to have one. Could definitely use one...
    Last edited by L47; 07-17-2017 at 09:33 AM.

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    Trevor-go on his website and check it out. He has pics of what he did and the cost associated with it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro Krant View Post
    Trevor-go on his website and check it out. He has pics of what he did and the cost associated with it.
    I actually didn't expect that to be so reasonable. According to a few Triumph projects he's got posted there, I'm not likely to pay much over $400 with shipping. l suppose I didn't fully appreciate how much larger/more complex an SOHC Honda motor is.

    This job he claims, cost $280.



    I'd send him the head and the cylinders as well. Why not? Blast it all.



    I probably would have polished up those combustion chambers up a touch first, but whatever. That's just me.

    One more of those cases. Fuck they're gorgeous.



    Sold. I'm doing it. I'll scrub them up real well this week and get the paperwork all taken care of. Maybe ship 'em out next week.
    Last edited by L47; 07-17-2017 at 09:34 AM.

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    Holy detonation pitting on that cylinder head!!

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    Lifetime User Array focusinprogress's Avatar
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    you won't be disappointed going with Nils.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LXIFLYBY View Post
    Holy detonation pitting on that cylinder head!!
    Yeah, I saw that on his site. There is a guy re-doing a Norton on a website I'm on that was a flood bike. The head looks less pitted/scabby than that one above.

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    I just had to share this piece of wonderful sexiness that showed up today.





    This should be arriving this week as well. Alloy pressure plate with radial roller thrust bearing. Hopefully this thing will end up with a really nice clutch feel.



    This week, I'll be scrubbing and blasting my engine cases, cylinders, head and likely the Amals, then sending them to Nils for vapor blasting. I'll get a quote, but I'll bet it's around $400 provided I clean everything really well. Pretty much every external aluminum part will be vapor blasted. Now that I think about it, could I blast off the chrome plating from the covers [primary, timing, gearbox] and have them vapor blasted, too? Might as well have everything match, eh?

    I'm ordering the rest of the parts the put the motor back together this week before I send it out. That way I'll be ready to start reassembling it when everything comes back. Moving forward.
    Last edited by L47; 07-17-2017 at 09:35 AM.

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    pro tip - use tinfoil to make a cover around the rods when putting the circlips in for the wrist pins.

    I regret not doing that last night on a 1966 BSA 650 I was assembling and shot a circlip into the case....gotta try a few magnetic wands or the entire thing has to come apart and I want to avoid the fuck out of that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by L47 View Post
    I just had to share this piece of wonderful sexiness that showed up today.





    This should be arriving this week as well. Alloy pressure plate with radial roller thrust bearing. Hopefully this thing will end up with a really nice clutch feel.



    This week, I'll be scrubbing and blasting my engine cases, cylinders, head and likely the Amals, then sending them to Nils for vapor blasting. I'll get a quote, but I'll bet it's around $400 provided I clean everything really well. Pretty much every external aluminum part will be vapor blasted. Now that I think about it, could I blast off the chrome plating from the covers [primary, timing, gearbox] and have them vapor blasted, too? Might as well have everything match, eh?

    I'm ordering the rest of the parts the put the motor back together this week before I send it out. That way I'll be ready to start reassembling it when everything comes back. Moving forward.
    Generally chrome should be chemically stripped off, then blasted. Tripp plating on william st in Buffalo just stripped my knucklehead lifter blocks same day for 30 bucks.
    Icecream Paintjob

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    Quote Originally Posted by newman View Post
    Generally chrome should be chemically stripped off, then blasted. Tripp plating on william st in Buffalo just stripped my knucklehead lifter blocks same day for 30 bucks.
    I did a lot of research after that post, and that's what I've been reading. Apparently the thin chrome layer is somewhat easy to remove; it's the underlying nickel [and potentially other layers] that's the bitch. These are aluminum parts, so mechanical removal isn't really an option anyway. I'm trying to head over to the shop shortly, so I'll collect all of the gross chrome parts and bring them over to Tripp tomorrow. Thanks for the recommendation.

    I fucking hate chrome. Especially shitty, peely, pitted chrome. Don't nobody got time fuh' nunna 'dat.

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    Got the pressure plate. Just as sexy as I had hoped. Damn.



    Anyway, I degreased the timing side case half with diesel while I baked the other half in the oven. The service manual recommends "paraffin [kerosene]". Anybody looked for kero lately? I couldn't find any, so after about 30 minutes I settled for diesel. Felt kinda badass degreasing an engine in diesel anyway. Turned out pretty okay. In the first picture, you can see the drift I whittled up real quick for removing the cam bushings. I'll make solid drifts and use a shop press upon reassembly.





    I need to make a few more drifts to get at the bearings in this one, but I'm thinking about heading back over this evening and doing that as well as cleaning/degreasing the primary side case half. Then I can blast everything before shipping to Nils to save on his labor. We'll see. Didn't get a change to box that chrome shit up. Maybe tonight. Try to take it over on Friday.
    Last edited by L47; 07-17-2017 at 09:36 AM.

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    Fuck man, those look great after cleaning up with diesel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro Krant View Post
    Fuck man, those look great after cleaning up with diesel.
    Right? I'm pretty stoked to see what everything will look like vapor blasted. The cleaner I can get everything here, the easier [cheaper] Nils' job is.

    Looks like my 7/8"-9 UNC tap is going to get delivered today too, so I can remove all of the bushings. Oh, happy day. Should have everything ready to blast next time.
    Last edited by L47; 12-28-2016 at 12:12 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by L47 View Post
    I fucking hate chrome. Especially shitty, peely, pitted chrome. Don't nobody got time fuh' nunna 'dat.
    Generally I agree. Though I prefer well applied to chrome to polished aluminum, though. Polished aluminum scratches just by looking at it, corrodes (unless you seal it and that degrades the finish a bit), and just doesn't have the same shine that chrome does. Once chrome starts failing though it's garbage, and if it does get damaged there isn't much you can do to fix it.

    Also, I don't know where you are located, but there are several places with kero. I stopped using deisel in my heater because it fuckin reeks.
    Last edited by newman; 12-28-2016 at 12:24 PM.
    Icecream Paintjob

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    Quote Originally Posted by newman View Post
    Generally I agree. Though I prefer well applied to chrome to polished aluminum, though. Polished aluminum scratches just by looking at it, corrodes (unless you seal it and that degrades the finish a bit), and just doesn't have the same shine that chrome does. Once chrome starts failing though it's garbage, and if it does get damaged there isn't much you can do to fix it.

    Also, I don't know where you are located, but there are several places with kero. I stopped using deisel in my heater because it fuckin reeks.

    Oh, sure. If you want a uniform, shiny finish; chrome plating is hard to beat on aluminum. That's just usually not my bag. More of a satin guy. Ideally, I want these covers to be vapor blasted with the rest of the engine, but I'm not really sure what the reverse plating process will leave me on these covers. As long as I can carefully blast them back down to somewhat smooth, bare aluminum; it should work. If not, I suppose I could powdercoat them black or something. Not what I want, but anything is better than pitted, peeling chrome. They're just covers, too. I can always pull them and replace them if I find a more suitable finishing method.

    I was searching for kero in/near Hamburg. I tried to Google for it and I was lead to three places without it. I didn't care to waste any more time, so I bought diesel. Served my purpose well enough. I'm not super concerned with odor as I'm not burning it. Besides, is it crazy if I find the smell of unburnt diesel almost pleasant?

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    Yes, you are wierd. It stinks even if you get it on your sneaker hahah

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    The stripping should not damage the underlying metal.

    Have you thought about removing some of the casting marks from the motor cases? Not going crazy and rounding off everything, but just getting rid of those parting lines.

    It would be a cool detail that most people probably cant do because they rarely strip their motor down this far.
    Last edited by newman; 12-29-2016 at 10:38 AM.
    Icecream Paintjob

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    Quote Originally Posted by newman View Post
    The stripping should not damage the underlying metal.

    Have you thought about removing some of the casting marks from the motor cases? Not going crazy and rounding off everything, but just getting rid of those parting lines.

    It would be a cool detail that most people probably cant do because they rarely strip their motor down this far.
    That's good to hear about the stripping. I didn't actually suspect I'd have anything to worry about, I just concern myself with everything.

    Honestly, no; I hadn't thought about shaving casting lines. I usually miss little details like that. That's a great idea, though. Wouldn't take a huge amount more work either, as I've already got everything torn down and squeaky clean. I've been meaning to get a little 3/8" belt air sander. Would be pretty perfect for that.

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    I finished heating the cases and knocking out all of the bearings and bushings. Both engine half castings are completely bare along with the gearbox inner cover. I broke the head down by removing the intake studs/carb spacers and valves/springs. Guides were definitely replaced by Kilspie. They look brand new and are actually tight, according to my .3115"-.0002" Go/NoGo gauge. New valves recommend .3115 clearance, so I can hone them a tiny bit to get them perfect. Sweet.

    Then I decided to break down the rocker boxes. Holy shit. Look at these garbage rocker shafts. Two out of four oil holes were clogged and they're oil coked and pitted like fuck.



    I don't believe anybody has ever taken those down this far. They needed it.

    Hoping to head back tomorrow and continue degreasing the parts to be vapor blasted. That list continues to grow. I'd also like to collect all of the chrome parts to be reverse plated and put them in a box to be dropped off this week. Of course I haven't gotten to that yet.
    Last edited by L47; 07-17-2017 at 09:37 AM.

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    I still can't believe that someone took it to the sludge trap but did so many other half ass things to it

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