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Thread: Trevor's Triumph

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro Krant View Post
    I still can't believe that someone took it to the sludge trap but did so many other half ass things to it
    This.

    Oh, and check these tappet block o-rings. These are pretty good, too.



    At this point, I think Kit took the motor apart just so he could carve his fucking name inside of it. I mean, he did clean the sludge trap; but that's literally it. He replaced nothing and he certainly didn't do a full teardown. Why even bother?

    I think I'll head over in a bit and work on it. Day off today.
    Last edited by L47; 07-17-2017 at 09:37 AM.

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    Finally boxed up all of the chrome junk to be stripped. How clean does that stuff have to be? I would guess they clean everything before processing so they can be sure it's really clean. Yes? No?

    Anyway, as soon as that stuff is bare I'll blast it everything and ship it all to Nils. I'm thinking I should be able to get everything clean enough on my own that Nils' labor should be vapor blasting only. At least that's my hope.

    I worked on the frame today. Mainly, I pulled the kick and center stands, the horn and the in-frame oil filter/cover. Both stands are bent.



    I straightened the center stand with a piece of DOM tubing with the end flattened enough so that it slipped over the stand's arm. Using a piece of drill rod, verified that I had the aligned the bolt holes. Works much better now. Need to strip and powdercoat it.



    Next time I go over there, I should be able to pretty much finish the frame, minus the upper shock mount and seat mounts. The new swingarm uses a 20mm pivot bolt, so the original tiny pivot holes have to get blown out. I'm going to make some cups on the lathe which will go into the end on each side of the drilled-out pivot housing. These cups will not only provide a home for 20mm needle bearings, but they'll also spread the bearings apart a bit, allowing the frame to better support the 'wider-than-factory' Ducati swingarm. Less radial force on the bearings as the effective lever length is reduced. Anyway, that's next time. Have to get some real big drill bits for that.

    Whole shitload of parts showed up. More coming tomorrow. Package from the UK with the outer gearbox mainshaft bearing, the other set of lifters, rod bearings, and a few small hardware pieces and seals.



    Don't need much more than rods, pistons/rings, cams and a few more pieces of hardware to do a pretty much complete rebuild. Gonna spice it up a bit while I'm in there.
    Last edited by L47; 07-17-2017 at 09:38 AM.

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    WTF are you talking about???? Those tappet block o rings look FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Kit, what a wanker name for a wanker rebuild. Says the guy named Richard....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro Krant View Post
    WTF are you talking about???? Those tappet block o rings look FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Kit, what a wanker name for a wanker rebuild. Says the guy named Richard....
    if you're new year's resolution was to be less angry and hateful, I DON'T FUCKIN LIKE IT.

    MOAR HATE.

    sidenote, smashing job on the rebuild L47, looking forward to the completed cafe racer.

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    Just an FYI i had some parts I made plated locally for 70 bucks. Probably the look you are after.

    Metalic but not overly shiny:

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    Quote Originally Posted by newman View Post
    Just an FYI i had some parts I made plated locally for 70 bucks. Probably the look you are after.

    Metalic but not overly shiny:

    Actually, yea. That pretty much is the look I'm after. Those all for the Knuckle? The vapor blasted aluminum has that dull shine that I really like. It kind of looks like a chunk of fresh, clean aluminum at the same time it's vintage-y and patina'd due the the satin. I promise I'm not a hipster.

    Anyway, if you don't mind me asking, who did that plating; Tripp? Is that just straight electroless Nickel? That's definitely something I would consider for the covers/smaller parts as an alternative to vapor blasting. Frankly, that looks good enough that I would consider having everything plated like that just for convenience. I worry about plating, but theoretically as long as it's applied well and it's cared for; it really shouldn't be a problem. At least not before the motor has to get torn down and rebuilt again.

    This dude allows people to blast their shit on his equipment for $15/hr. Too bad I don't live anywhere near Oregon.
    Last edited by L47; 01-10-2017 at 11:25 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by focusinprogress View Post
    if you're new year's resolution was to be less angry and hateful, I DON'T FUCKIN LIKE IT.

    MOAR HATE.

    sidenote, smashing job on the rebuild L47, looking forward to the completed cafe racer.
    The very first thing Richard said to me after he got off his Norton when he stopped by the shop last summer was "fuck cars." Hah.

    Thanks, man. Me too. I didn't really plan on throwing two grand plus at the motor alone, but fuck it; why not? That's what you get when you buy your girlfriend's dad's bike that he and a buddy tore apart. The evidence is there. It needed to be fully rebuilt by somebody that can use tools.

    Tax return should cover my wheelset and rear shock at least, so I should be able to fully mock and finish the chassis. Really want to have this done by the time the weather breaks, so I can get back to work on that little plastic racecar and have that done early-mid summer.
    Last edited by L47; 01-11-2017 at 01:07 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by L47 View Post
    Actually, yea. That pretty much is the look I'm after. Those all for the Knuckle? The vapor blasted aluminum has that dull shine that I really like. It kind of looks like a chunk of fresh, clean aluminum at the same time it's vintage-y and patina'd due the the satin. I promise I'm not a hipster.

    Anyway, if you don't mind me asking, who did that plating; Tripp? Is that just straight electroless Nickel? That's definitely something I would consider for the covers/smaller parts as an alternative to vapor blasting. Frankly, that looks good enough that I would consider having everything plated like that just for convenience. I worry about plating, but theoretically as long as it's applied well and it's cared for; it really shouldn't be a problem. At least not before the motor has to get torn down and rebuilt again.

    This dude allows people to blast their shit on his equipment for $15/hr. Too bad I don't live anywhere near Oregon.
    TOMPKINS METAL FINISHING.

    They're in Batavia. Electroless Nickel will bring out any scratch in the part, so I would personally have the parts vapor blasted for consistent surface finish THEN plated. The plating will prevent the parts from dulling over time, and it goes on so thing you don't need to worry much about the press fits on parts.
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    I went over for a few hours today. I chose to work on the steering stabilizer. It came with the fork, which is from a 2008 Gixxer 1000. Decent little KYB unit. But it's got an electronic solenoid that plugs a passage in the stabilizer body to limit fluid movement when it's hit with 12V, no doubt triggered by the factory ECU at a certain vehicle speed to allow more dampening at high[er] speeds. Or, it did. I fired up the lathe and whittled up a solid replacement in the extended setting.







    I'll finish this up tomorrow. Not sure what else I'll work on. Whatever calls my name, I suppose.
    Last edited by L47; 07-17-2017 at 09:39 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by newman View Post
    Tripp plating on william st in Buffalo just stripped my knucklehead lifter blocks same day for 30 bucks.
    You must know somebody. I just took a few large parts and several small ones over there today and was quoted $250 and two weeks. Better be fucking CLEEEAN for that price.
    Last edited by L47; 01-23-2017 at 02:30 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by L47 View Post
    Not sure what else I'll work on. Whatever calls my name, I suppose.
    Walk your lenky ass over to my garage and I'll find you plenty

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    Quote Originally Posted by L47 View Post
    You must know somebody. I just took a few large parts and several small ones over there today and was quoted $250 and two weeks. Better be fucking CLEEEAN for that price.
    Dang that's steep. How large? The only parts I brought were two small lifter blocks and they were 100% free of any dirt.
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    Quote Originally Posted by newman View Post
    Dang that's steep. How large? The only parts I brought were two small lifter blocks and they were 100% free of any dirt.
    I brought over the primary cover [~7"x16"], inspection cover [3" round disc], timing cover [~7"x7"], gearbox outer cover [~6"x10"], two rocker boxes [~6"x4"x2"], two inlet manifolds [2"x2"x1"] and two carburetor caps [1" round disc]. My parts definitely needed to be degreased. Dude didn't seem to be overly enthusiastic about taking my business. I got the impression I was inconveniencing him. He grumbled while shuffling through the parts, told me between $200-$250 (with an obvious emphasis on the high end) and then he asked for my name and phone number. He told me he'd call me and headed for the door. I asked "Uhh...so, a couple days or what?" He laughed. "I can try to have them done by the end of the week." I looked at him. "It's usually one to two weeks" he continued, before walked through the door. Cool. After vapor blasting, I'm going to have $800 in just outward engine appearance. A bit ridiculous.

    I remade that steering damper plug.






    And then I welded it to a flange.








    Just need to get some paint/powdercoat on it and that's done.

    I bought an Ohlins rear shock from a Daytona, and I placed a nice order with Cognito. As soon as all of that shit shows up and I get the wheels built, I can finish frame fabrication. Rad.

    Last edited by L47; 07-17-2017 at 09:53 AM.

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    slow down you're making me look bad. lol.

    whats that swingarm off of?

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    Quote Originally Posted by L47 View Post
    After vapor blasting, I'm going to have $800 in just outward engine appearance. A bit ridiculous.

    I bought an Ohlins rear shock from a Daytona, and I placed a nice order with Cognito
    Well, That seems like an appropriate order of magnitude then, considering the size and cleanliness level. If it makes you feel any better I have spent 1500 dollars on buffing wheels.

    Man, I don't like cognito moto. Just an FYI, I had a pair of one-off hubs made from emachineshop.com off my print for only a little more than you paid for that one hub. Besides the fact that I think their prices suck, it's just too "order your cafe racer off the internet"... which isn't what YOU are doing, but when I see bikes that it just looks like cognito moto threw up all over, it bums me out.

    Are you building the wheels?
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    Quote Originally Posted by focusinprogress View Post
    slow down you're making me look bad. lol.

    whats that swingarm off of?
    Hah, don't worry. I've still got a shit ton of work to do. The swingarm is from a ~2005 Ducati 800 SuperSport. I actually cut the top hoop off of it the other day. I'm going to replace it with one that's a little shorter, works a bit better with my shock choice and is made of ~1" DOM. I like Newman's wooden die bending method, so I'll likely give that a go.


    Quote Originally Posted by newman View Post
    Well, That seems like an appropriate order of magnitude then, considering the size and cleanliness level. If it makes you feel any better I have spent 1500 dollars on buffing wheels.

    Man, I don't like cognito moto. Just an FYI, I had a pair of one-off hubs made from emachineshop.com off my print for only a little more than you paid for that one hub. Besides the fact that I think their prices suck, it's just too "order your cafe racer off the internet"... which isn't what YOU are doing, but when I see bikes that it just looks like cognito moto threw up all over, it bums me out.

    Are you building the wheels?
    Let's not start comparing this British hog to your beautiful handcrafted Knuckle. Hah. But yea. That does make me a feel a tiny bit better.

    Yea. I know. I actually felt a little guilty ordering them, because it was like "I don't even have to CAD these, they'll just work." There's even a SKU for the one. Ideally, I'll go the full custom route next time. I tried to rationalize it this way; I ordered the hubs bare so that I can anodize them gold myself to match the intended Beringer hardware and I'll powder coat the spokes black and the nipples tank color. I am planning on building the wheels myself.
    Last edited by L47; 01-24-2017 at 11:35 AM.

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    Lifetime User Array GV1390's Avatar
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    Woah, Devin got a nice chunk of change from you!

    Beringer stuff rocks.


    Quote Originally Posted by newman View Post
    order your cafe racer off the internet"..
    Also doesn't help that you don't like café themed motorcycles to begin with.
    Last edited by GV1390; 01-24-2017 at 12:13 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by L47 View Post
    I ordered the hubs bare so that I can anodize them gold myself to match the intended Beringer hardware and I'll powder coat the spokes black and the nipples tank color. I am planning on building the wheels myself.
    I'm running a Beringer caliper on my knucklehead. I think. If it looks too modern I will shelve it for something else.

    Quote Originally Posted by GV1390 View Post
    Also doesn't help that you don't like café themed motorcycles to begin with.
    I don't mind cafe racer type bikes, but most of that culture is not DIY. Or not any type of real DIY. And I don't like that. While I'm sure there are cases of it, so many of the bikes are just assemblies of purchased parts. Not a lot of talent. It's a lot like the car scene, really. Or the modern harley/bobber scene. Lots and lots of buy this, buy that.

    Choppers, on the other hand, is heavily rooted in DIY. Go to a chopper type show (NOT a "bike night") and I can guarantee that 90% of the bikes will have handmade parts. Yeah, a lot of it is really terrible, but it's much more endearing to me than just some catalog bike.

    Anyway, I don't think this bike is in the vein of the former, so carry on.
    Last edited by newman; 01-24-2017 at 01:54 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by newman View Post
    I don't mind cafe racer type bikes, but most of that culture is not DIY. Or not any type of real DIY..
    I hate how café is synonymous with any shit bag abortion with clip on bars that has been left to rot under a tree and now some douche canoe thinks it's the second coming of Christ. I'm sorry, but your fucking Verago is as far from a café bike as I am from being optimistic.


    Quote Originally Posted by newman View Post
    Choppers, on the other hand, is heavily rooted in DIY. Go to a chopper type show (NOT a "bike night") and I can guarantee that 90% of the bikes will have handmade parts. Yeah, a lot of it is really terrible, but it's much more endearing to me than just some catalog bike.
    Oh god-I went to a "bike night", the last one at Armor Tap Room. I was worried as my headlight is less than ideal for riding when the sun is not directly over head. I parked the bike, threw down the side stand, looked up, and kicked it over before even turning off the fuel. It was a sea of pointy bullet air cleaner bullshit, iron crosses, hags on the back that looked decent from far, far from decent, and WANKERS that looked like they bought EVERY FUCKING piece of clothing from the Harley catalog. Jacket/hat/helmet/bandana/PUKE.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro Krant View Post
    I hate Oh god-I went to a "bike night", the last one at Armor Tap Room. I was worried as my headlight is less than ideal for riding when the sun is not directly over head. I parked the bike, threw down the side stand, looked up, and kicked it over before even turning off the fuel. It was a sea of pointy bullet air cleaner bullshit, iron crosses, hags on the back that looked decent from far, far from decent, and WANKERS that looked like they bought EVERY FUCKING piece of clothing from the Harley catalog. Jacket/hat/helmet/bandana/PUKE.
    Come to Fuel Cleveland this year. Very little of that. If you had any appreciation for VBR, you would like it there.
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    Deal. At least I'll have a lot of people around to give me a lift when my bike goes all British. Do we leave people when they have trouble or do we act like the Marines and leave no man behind?

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    Speaking of DIY or 'custom'; I discovered that the steering damper solenoid is not a simple on/off affair. It's actually a PWM unit that offers different levels of dampening based on duty cycle. Frankly, that's much more preferable to one blanket setting anyhow. I was planning on running a speedometer anyway, mainly because I like to go fast. I bought a GPS VSS to facilitate that, which outputs what I believe to be a 4,000PPM square wave signal. I can interface that to an Arduino which will correlate speed to PWM duty cycle and thus, dampening. Newer sport bikes even have an accelerometer built into a separate damper-only computer that stiffens the damper during hard acceleration and deceleration as well as following the speed/PWM curve. Maybe I'll bring that to work with me tomorrow.

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    Quote Originally Posted by L47 View Post
    Speaking of DIY or 'custom'; I discovered that the steering damper solenoid is not a simple on/off affair. It's actually a PWM unit that offers different levels of dampening based on duty cycle. Frankly, that's much more preferable to one blanket setting anyhow. I was planning on running a speedometer anyway, mainly because I like to go fast. I bought a GPS VSS to facilitate that, which outputs what I believe to be a 4,000PPM square wave signal. I can interface that to an Arduino which will correlate speed to PWM duty cycle and thus, dampening. Newer sport bikes even have an accelerometer built into a separate damper-only computer that stiffens the damper during hard acceleration and deceleration as well as following the speed/PWM curve. Maybe I'll bring that to work with me tomorrow.
    I bought a PWM unit the other day to run my taillights. Got LEDs in the housing, but only wanted to run one taillight wire, so I'm running the pwm set to 50% between the battery and the tail light, then I'm going to short around it for brake lights. Will have to put a diode behind the pwm to be safe, I think. I don't know a ton about circuits, really.
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    Quote Originally Posted by newman View Post
    I bought a PWM unit the other day to run my taillights. Got LEDs in the housing, but only wanted to run one taillight wire, so I'm running the pwm set to 50% between the battery and the tail light, then I'm going to short around it for brake lights. Will have to put a diode behind the pwm to be safe, I think. I don't know a ton about circuits, really.
    Sounds like a 555 timer or similar op-amp/comparator based circuit. I could theoretically do something like that with this. I thought about a thumbwheel on the left bar for adjusting damper stiffness, but I just don't know if I'm in love with having to adjust that manually. I'd most likely just find a 'good setting' and leave it there, plus I just don't feel like that's taking advantage of the capabilities and purpose of the electronic damper.

    It shouldn't be a complicated thing. What I'm envisioning is a very small circuit board with an embedded Arduino bootlader compatible microcontroller, a 3-axis accelerometer and an input buffer. A few lines of code so that the Arduino follows [likely] an X^2 curve on the MPH/PWM plot normally, as well as monitoring the accelerometer Y-Axis for 'high' input. I shouldn't need anything more than the Y-axis. Just motorcycle accel and decel.

    I studied Electrical Engineering at UB for several years and lost financial aid before I could finish. My own fault, but it still put a wrench in the works. Anyway, I do it as a hobby now. I make things work. I call myself a 'Pretendgineer'. It makes me feel a bit better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by newman View Post
    I bought a PWM unit the other day to run my taillights. Got LEDs in the housing, but only wanted to run one taillight wire, so I'm running the pwm set to 50% between the battery and the tail light, then I'm going to short around it for brake lights. Will have to put a diode behind the pwm to be safe, I think. I don't know a ton about circuits, really.
    I like that idea. Might have to run a single throw, dual pole SW or Relay to open the controller if that diode doesn't solve the issue bypassing it might create depending on the controller. Bench test it, you're SMRT, you'll figure it out.

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