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Thread: VW Cabriolet Project for the wifey

  1. #601
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    Pure amazing clean work. On the one hand you inspire, on the other hand it's like I am so satisfied with seeing your craftsmanship that I don't even want to touch any of the projects in my mind
    IN Collision Inc.... My choice of car care and repair.

  2. #602
    Sr. User Array juicedz4's Avatar
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    Haha thanks.

    With the column done it was time to get back to the trans mounts and shifter bits.


    When I first test fit the 02A S&P mounts I noticed that while they fit fine, they seemed to locate the motor in a different spot than the OE mounts for the 020. This was not acceptable as I had already done the exhaust among other things with it in the original position. I struggled with a way to locate it the same but eventually came up with this.


    Installed the original 020 trans and mounts, and used my hydraulic table and wooden cradle to hold it in place with the upper trans mount removed. Then made a jig that located the trans mount to the body.





    With that set I pulled the motor back out then made another jig to act like the trans mounts on the body. I made a wooden disc to take place of the rubber trans mount insert as I didnt want to press it in and have it damaged from welding etc.





    And there we have the difference between the mount I bought and where I need it. The sharpie markings were my best guess based on some measurements I was trying do do with the transmissions on the bench, not bad.





    Cut the mount up. and started welding in new sides. I did them in two pieces, welded top and bottom as I didnt have the correct box tubing. A couple of 0.025" ss spacers were used between one of the legs and the trans to allow space for paint/ powder.











    The we skip a bunch of steps where I weld in extra steel to even out the top, then some silicon bronze for the radii and fillets.





    Clearance for the reverse switch





    Close up of the finish.





    I do need to take about 0.1" off the bowtie piece of the Diesel Geek shifter plate so it doesnt interfere with the mount. Most people window the side of the mount but it doesnt look as good and since Im not using the stock shift linkage its just not necessary.


    Up next the shift cables.


    First test fit them with the oe trans bracket and they fit perfectly.





    However, when I went to double check the fit of the charge pipe there was an issue since when I did the turbo setup there were no cables...





    I decided to lower the cable bracket vs smashing in the charge pipe. But first I needed to remove this:





    Cut up the oe bracket and welded it to a new base plate.





    Added some sil-brz and created a nice fillet and finished.







    I also had to tweak the lower trans mount by redrilling the holes in a slightly new spot to get it to fit, but no pics.


    Up next: Intercooler mount.


    Dan

  3. #603
    Sr. User Array juicedz4's Avatar
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    Got a pic of the previously mentioned lower trans mount bracket. Basically I just had to weld up the original holes and drill two new holes for the mount. Sharpie marks are about where the original holes were located. So that finishes up all the mount mods needed.








    Next I needed to add a little clearance between the DieselGeek shifter plate and the trans mount. I simply ground about 0.1" off the plate. I also didnt like that there were two stacked plates so I welded the edges together and ground smooth. Much better.





    Then I came up with mounts for the intercooler. Its likely overkill, but I think it looks cool and is functional without having a huge plate or something else supporting it.








    This was fun. I ended up doing the bottom few dabs with silicon bronze so as to not ruin my blend job.





    Mount blended.





    Reverse switch and connector still fit!





    A few shots of the almost complete assembly.

















    Yesterday I just did a bunch of little nonsense.


    Swapped the bypass valve cover from the plastic one to a billet one.








    Ground all of the 020 shifter lever tabs off of the steering rack.





    Added the bulkhead for the hydro clutch





    Reassembled the steering column so I can do the clutch hard line since the banjo fitting for the master arrived.





    Dan

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    Regular User Array lorge1989's Avatar
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    what kind of ic core is that?

    1994 Audi 90 V8 - 1988 Audi 90 MS3X - 1978 GMC High Sierra

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    Quote Originally Posted by lorge1989 View Post
    what kind of ic core is that?
    It's just a cheap CX Racing piece

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    Lifetime User Array 91MR2's Avatar
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    Truly beautiful work, Dan...

    2012 Lotus Evora S GP, 1995 Lotus Esprit S4, 1991 Toyota MR2, 1987 Renault GTA

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    such clean and calculated work

  8. #608
    Sr. User Array juicedz4's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I feel like its finally coming together. At least mechanically. With any luck Ill have all this shit done soon so I can get back to the body.

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    Sr. User Array maxwell's Avatar
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    Will you be handling/rebuilding the engine/trans yourself or outsourcing?
    MAXWELL
    BLAOWW!!

  10. #610
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    Quote Originally Posted by juicedz4 View Post
    It's just a cheap CX Racing piece
    I ran one of those before, and I had a lot of trouble with it. I hate to say it, but on a build like this is seems like an oversight to use such and iffy piece. Maybe at your boost levels it will be fine

    1994 Audi 90 V8 - 1988 Audi 90 MS3X - 1978 GMC High Sierra

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    Quote Originally Posted by lorge1989 View Post
    I ran one of those before, and I had a lot of trouble with it. I hate to say it, but on a build like this is seems like an oversight to use such and iffy piece. Maybe at your boost levels it will be fine
    Yea, I figured for a street car at 15psi it would be fine. If not, Ill get a Bell core and make my own to replace it.

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    Sr. User Array juicedz4's Avatar
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    Finished up the shifter.


    Cleaned up all the factory parts, replaced the main "bearing" for the shifter arm, and the little rubber insulator for the side/side spring, bead blasted and matte cleared the housing, installed the ss mounting studs (two of which I had to trim to lenght b/c nfw I could leave them diff lenghts), and added some gold foil to the bottom cover.














    Made the hard line for the clutch master.





    Then decided I best put EVERYTHING back in to be sure im not missing anything big and that there are no issues. So far so good.





    Still need to get the HX mounted an make up the last two lines for it to the pump and IC. Hoping to have that done this weekend, but we'll see.


    Dan

  13. #613
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    What sayeth you on my engine/trans question? Im curious.
    MAXWELL
    BLAOWW!!

  14. #614
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxwell View Post
    Will you be handling/rebuilding the engine/trans yourself or outsourcing?
    Totally missed this. I will be having it done. Some things Id rather leave to someone else. This is probably the one thing I wont tackle (and maybe the final paint depending on how i do on the bottom and engine bay.

    EDIT: I will likely be installing the diff in the trans myself. This Ive done before and Im pretty comfortable with.

    Dan
    Last edited by juicedz4; 01-10-2018 at 02:17 PM.

  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by juicedz4 View Post
    Totally missed this. I will be having it done. Some things Id rather leave to someone else. This is probably the one thing I wont tackle (and maybe the final paint depending on how i do on the bottom and engine bay.

    EDIT: I will likely be installing the diff in the trans myself. This Ive done before and Im pretty comfortable with.

    Dan


    I feel you. Although based on your attention to detail and fab skills im confident an engine build would probably be a walk in the park for you.

    either way, love love loving these updates and the IG updates. Keep it coming.
    MAXWELL
    BLAOWW!!

  16. #616
    Sr. User Array juicedz4's Avatar
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    Sat I made the mounts for the heat exchanger. Naturally the storm messed up my Summit shipment so I wasnt able to weld the AN bugs on but at least its mounted now.


    My super high tech fixture for the lower brackets.








    Cut out a section of box tubing to make the top brackets and welded them on.














    Bingo





    Next, I refused to use the giant self tapping screws or whatever to mount the fan shroud so I added some 10-24 brass inserts.











    Then switched gears to work on some other parts for the body while I wait for parts.


    Hood hinges smoothed, dimples filled with silbrz and the "hooks" removed.





    Then I decided to tackle the trunk lid. Since Ill be shaving the lock I needed to add an acuator.


    Original mech





    Trimmed and bent the rod to attach to a door lock actuator.





    10-24 nutserts fit perfecly in the OE holes for the cardboard panel that went over this area.





    Added an aluminum plate. Works mint.





    Finally I started shaving the holes from the emblems. Oh the days before two sided tape....





    Dan

  17. #617
    Sr. User Array juicedz4's Avatar
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    Good progress last night. Finished shaving the badge holes. Which went pretty smooth and turned out good. They probably wont even need any filler.








    Then it was time to tackle the lock hole. I needed to remove the step, but wanted it round and centered if possible. Puzzled it for a bit until I remembered I had this hole saw arbor that lets you expand existing holes. Luckily I had the perfect size saw for the existing hole (just had to go around it like 20x with a deburring tool for a slip fit).








    Then carefully cut a circle of steel to fill the hole.





    Skipping a bunch of steps, but basically i did a bunch of tacks a few times around to get it fully welded. Then ground, sanded, hammered, sanded, hammered, until we get to here. Its def not perfect and will certainly need some filler, but Im pretty pleased.














    Up next is the third brake light. Im either going to shave it completely or shave it but add a thin flush mount LED. I cant find a good pic of what Id like to do, but basically youd just see the lens which would be a piece of lexan sanded flush to the contour of the lid.


    Dan

  18. #618
    Sr. User Array maxwell's Avatar
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    Whats left as far as fab/body before the engine/trans can be sent off to be built and you can paint and re-assemble this thing?

    Loving the progress updates. Favorite thread here by far.
    MAXWELL
    BLAOWW!!

  19. #619
    Sr. User Array juicedz4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxwell View Post
    Whats left as far as fab/body before the engine/trans can be sent off to be built and you can paint and re-assemble this thing?

    Loving the progress updates. Favorite thread here by far.
    Fab:

    heat exchanger water lines - hopefully tomorrow
    catch can - metal for it due today, probably finish it up over the next couple weeks
    need to rework the rear brake line a little - tomorrow
    final weld of exhaust once the real header flange shows up, due week after next
    machine a firewall passthru / bulkhead for the heater core lines
    heat shield for firewall

    Body:

    Shave fender and quarter marker light holes and antenna hole
    fix drivers quarter panel
    Firewall - shave clutch cable hole, speedo cable hole, and flatten out the RHD column feature to make more room for heat shield
    3rd brake light mods
    shave hood vents (probably)

    Then I have to strip pretty much the whole body as whoever repainted it before me used a shit load of product I just cant paint over. That should be fun.

  20. #620
    Sr. User Array juicedz4's Avatar
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    Decided to go ahead and shave the third brake light. Still unsure what Im going to do to replace it but for now its gone. Im considering two to replace it; one inside at the top of the rear window for when the top is up, and one on the roll bar for when its down. (obv would have a way to disable either depending on the top position). It would be cleaner and more visible, which is good given the size of this car and the distraction level of drivers these days.


    Anyway, I didnt get any pics of it welded up but here we have the filler done and the first coat of primer blocked down. I have a couple low spots and some pin holes to deal with. In general though I think its damn close. A quick coat of glaze here and there and another coat of primer and it should be set. I was surprised that there seemed to be some filler under the OE paint. Perhaps Karman did something with them?














    Between filler drying I started working on a fender. Everything is so filthy still.








    Shaving the marker lights in progress. The screw holes are already weld up here.





    Unrelated to body work, the clutch hydro line and banjo fitting showed. Fit nicely.








    Welded the -12 bungs to the HX and got two of the hoses done. Still waiting on some support spring for the lower, suction, hose.











    Dan

  21. #621
    Sr. User Array maxwell's Avatar
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    you gonna keep those fender badges?
    MAXWELL
    BLAOWW!!

  22. #622
    Sr. User Array juicedz4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxwell View Post
    you gonna keep those fender badges?
    They are already in the bin.

  23. #623
    Sr. User Array juicedz4's Avatar
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    Blocked the deck lid, added some glaze to address the pin holes and other spots, blocked, and re-primed. It should be good to go know with just a quick blocking.








    Back to the fender. Welded and brazed the antenna hole up. Shoudnt need any filler.





    Got the first coat of filler over the marker light area. Probably just a light coat of glaze will finish it off.





    And then I started cleaning up the other fender when I noticed some filler squeezed thru a hole at the front corner, surrounded by a little rust. So I went to town and found this.


    Yup, thats like 0.1" of filler and a hole from a dent puller stud, sigh. Not sure what Im gona do about this one yet.








    Dan

  24. #624
    Sr. User Array maxwell's Avatar
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    thinking you'll fix that fender or source another?
    MAXWELL
    BLAOWW!!

  25. #625
    Sr. User Array juicedz4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxwell View Post
    thinking you'll fix that fender or source another?
    Undecided. I think Ill try to fix it first and see what happens.

    But at the end of the day its probably a coin toss to try and fix it , or get an aftermarket fender to fit right.

    The only good thing about aftermarket is that they dont have marker light holes.

    Dan

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